Ballooning over Luxor is one of the few ways to see the scale of ancient Thebes properly. From a few hundred metres up, the West Bank reads as one landscape: green farmland along the river, the mortuary temples set against the desert edge, and the hills that hide the Valley of the Kings.
Pickup is before dawn, while it is still dark. You cross the Nile by boat to the launch field, where the pilot runs through the safety briefing over tea and coffee. The crew then inflates the envelope with cold air and fires the burners until the balloon stands upright and ready.
The flight lasts 30 to 45 minutes, drifting at different heights as the sun comes up over the East Bank. Hatshepsut's terraces, the Ramesseum, the Colossi of Memnon and the fields between them pass below. After landing on one of the designated fields, the crew hands out commemorative flight certificates and you are driven back across the river.
The whole morning takes around three hours, and it finishes early enough to continue straight into a West Bank tour if you want to see the sites from ground level as well.